Skip to content
Sunday, August 30, 2026
RSV TV MagazineFashion Events & RSVP · Shows & Parties
Go well · Eat well · Know before you go

Designer Appointment Watch: Who Takes the Empty Chairs?

The great reshuffle of 2025 carried into winter: Hermès, Versace, Balenciaga, Gucci and Chanel all settled their drawing rooms before the spring collections.

Infographic chart of creative director moves across five fashion houses

The most-watched empty chairs in fashion have been filling fast, and the two most consequential answers arrived within weeks of each other: per an announcement covered by the BBC in October 2025, Grace Wales Bonner was named creative director of menswear at Hermès, succeeding Véronique Nichanian after 37 years, and in December 2025 Versace and the Prada Group together named Pieter Mulier chief creative officer of Versace, effective July 1, 2026. The seats, in other words, are taken.

For the party circuit, appointments are casting news of the highest order. A new designer means a new front row, a new after-party hierarchy, and a fresh answer to the only question a carpet ever asks: who are you wearing now?

Which chairs changed hands, exactly?

The ledger, per company announcements through the period: at Gucci, Demna presented his first collection, La Famiglia, in September 2025, after Pierpaolo Piccioli was named to Balenciaga in 2025, succeeding him. At Chanel, Matthieu Blazy — appointed in December 2024 — showed his first collection for the house in October 2025. At Versace, Mulier succeeds Dario Vitale, who left after staging a single collection, following the Prada Group's acquisition of the house, a deal reported at roughly €1.25 billion, completed in December 2025. And at Hermès, Wales Bonner's first menswear collection is not due until January 2027.

Why did the Hermès appointment land differently?

Because of the arithmetic. Nichanian held the men's design job for 37 years — an eternity measured against an industry where two years now counts as a long tenure. Per the announcement of October 21, 2025, Wales Bonner, 35, becomes the first Black woman to lead design at Hermès menswear, arriving from her own London label, founded in 2014. The house has effectively traded a dynasty for a debut, and the front row knows it: expect the January 2027 show to be the hardest invitation of that season.

When will the new names reach a red carpet?

Sooner than their runways. The carpet works on loan cycles, not collection calendars: stylists begin requesting pieces from a new creative director’s archive the moment an appointment is confirmed. Demna’s La Famiglia appeared in September 2025 and Piccioli’s Balenciaga debut followed in October 2025, with Blazy’s Chanel premiere in the same month — all three ahead of the winter announcements. The 2026 arrivals run later: Mulier takes his seat at Versace on July 1, 2026, and Wales Bonner’s first Hermès collection waits until January 2027. Between those dates sits a long runway of gala invitations with new names penciled at the top of every table.

What does a new name buy the evening circuit?

Renewal, chiefly. A designer change resets which celebrities sit where, which archives get reopened for the carpet, and which after-party the stylists angle toward. The Versace handover is the case to watch: one creative era closed before a single collection could settle, and July 2026 will put a designer formed in the Prada and Raf Simons school in charge of a house built on baroque glamour. Translations of that kind are exactly what the launch invitations of the coming seasons exist to premiere.

Frequently Asked Questions

Who is the new creative director of menswear at Hermès?
Grace Wales Bonner, named to the post per an announcement of October 21, 2025, covered by the BBC. She succeeds Véronique Nichanian after 37 years and becomes the first Black woman to lead design at Hermès menswear. Her first collection for the house is scheduled for January 2027.
Who is taking over at Versace?
Pieter Mulier, named chief creative officer of Versace in a December 2025 announcement by Versace and the Prada Group, effective July 1, 2026. He succeeds Dario Vitale, who left after one collection, following the Prada Group's completion of its acquisition of the house, reported at roughly €1.25 billion.
When did Demna show his first Gucci collection?
His debut, La Famiglia, was shown in September 2025, per Kering's third-quarter release of October 22, 2025, which cited the collection during the earnings call. Demna moved to Gucci after Pierpaolo Piccioli was named creative director of Balenciaga in 2025, the two moves forming the pivot of the industry's wider reshuffle.
When did Matthieu Blazy debut at Chanel?
Blazy, appointed creative director of Chanel in December 2024, showed his first collection for the house in October 2025. The debut closed the opening chapter of the reshuffle that also carried Piccioli to Balenciaga, Demna to Gucci, and, by the winter announcements, Wales Bonner to Hermès and Mulier to Versace.

Sources

  1. Wales Bonner named Hermès menswear creative director, October 21, 2025; succeeds Nichanian after 37 years; first show January 2027BBC News / The New York Times (October 21, 2025)